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Hydrodynamics
The core of any numerical water model is the "hydrodynamic-physical"
part. This takes care of calculating the four basic parameters: currents,
sea level, temperature and salinity. A few important aspects of this part
can be summed up as follows:
- Currents: A distinction
may be made between two types. Tidal currents occur periodically and
are important in particular for short-term forecasts. "Residual"
currents are usually slower and display a constant, seasonal pattern
for weeks and even months. A typical residual circulation pattern, calculated
using a computer model, is illustrated for a winter
and a summer situation in the North
Sea.
- Fronts: By analogy with
meteorological situations, these form the dividing line between various
water masses and can be observed using satellite pictures. Thermal fronts
occur in the summer months and reflect the division between shallow,
mixed water, where the temperature remains constant under the influence
of turbulence, and deeper layered water consisting of a warm upper layer
and a cold lower layer. The two layers are separated by a thin layer
with sharp variations in temperature, known as the 'thermocline'. Fresh
water fronts form the dividing line between fresh river water and salty
seawater and are therefore found mainly along coastlines. An accurate
simulation of the intensity and location of fronts is important for
calculating residual currents and for the production of microplankton,
which lies at the basis of the food chain.
- Turbulence arises primarily
in reaction to the wind and tides and generates a complex pattern of
micro-fluctuations, varying from a few millimetres to several meters.
These fluctuations in turn influence the currents and the distribution
of temperature, salinity and other substances on a macro-scale. It is
virtually impossible to provide a precise description of turbulence
for an area like the North Sea using the current generation of computers,
which means that so-called 'turbulence models' in the form of complex
mathematical comparisons have to be used.
- Interactions with the atmosphere:
When calculating the temperature of the water, account has to be taken
of the sun's rays that warm up the top 10 to 20 meters of the water
column, and of other effects of heat exchange on the surface of the
sea. The wind in the lowest layer of the atmosphere causes waves and
turbulence. To include these effects in the model, meteorological data
are required (wind speed and direction, atmospheric pressure, atmospheric
humidity and temperature, cloud volume) and are usually provided by
means of a weather model.
The development of faster supercomputers makes it possible
to design and test more complex 'integrated' three-dimensional (length,
breadth and depth) models with important components for biology, sediments
and contaminants. One example of this is the recent COHERENS
computer program developed by MUMM. The model is currently employed by almost 600 users worldwide and
has been used for various applications.
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Coastal forecast
| TIDES |
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OSTEND
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[TAW] |
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Time |
Elev. |
| Low |
20:30 |
-0.06 m |
| High |
2:20 |
4.59 m |
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Harmonic prediction 
Ostend 1980–2020: |
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| WIND |
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WESTHINDER |
| Speed |
5.58 m/s |
| Sector |
92° , E |
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| WAVES |
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AKKAERT |
| Height |
0.57 m |
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| CURRENTS |
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WESTHINDER
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| TEMPERATURE |
OSTEND |
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| SALINITY |
OSTEND |
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| TRANSPORT |
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